Follow us to learn a bit about what life was like for the Nguyen Dynasty Kings- It may give a clue as to why everyone wanted to be a Nguyen!
A visit to Vietnam often includes some contact with the vast history of this country, which spans millenia. It is a history that is remembered in the street names, (with I believe an official list of which names are acceptable resulting in the repetition of certain common heros’ streets being found in almost every city or town in the country,) statues, and historic sites. A few weeks back we were close by the site dedicated to the memory of two of those, the Two Trung Sisters, and more recently we were in Hue, the site of the grand Citadel and Forbidden City of the Nguyen dynasty, which governed the country from the early 1800s to 1945 when the last ruler Bao Dai, agreed to abdicate and exiled to France where he later died and was buried.
But his ancestors built an impressive complex modeled in many respects after the Forbidden City in Beijing. The grand lay-out incorporated many familiar features- the central way, reserved for the King, with parallel entrances and paths for mandarins and courtiers, a separation of public and private spaces, men’s and women’s quarters, worship and pleasure.
The great deeds and poetic, wise utterances are commemorated and remembered in a vast hall with altars of each of the rulers, with the exception of the last, and the most noted being the founding father, Gia Lam. While a young missionary we lived on a street named for one of these Nguyen rulers, Thanh Thai, always being careful that we pronounced the name with the proper tones lest we instruct someone that we lived on the “become pregnant” street rather than that named for the ruler of the past. The street has since been renamed for a more acceptable hero (An Duong Vuong) and although there is a Thanh Thai street, it is rather unimportant.
Altar commemorating the seventh Nguyen King, Thanh Thai, his poetry engraved in the walls behind.
Architectural detail of the Queen Mother's residence in the Forbidden City, Hue
It was under the Nguyen dynasty that the French colonial influence (control?) intervened in Vietnam. So it is not surprising that many European influences entered into both the forms and the education of the later kings of that dynasty. And if one were to look upon the excesses of the next to last emporer, Khai Dinh, as reflected in his tomb, one might wonder if these were in part the cause of or at least contributing to the demise of the dynasty, a lesson demonstrated a generation earlier to the French themselves. The human and economic costs seem not dissimilar to those of the Book of Mormon king Noah, whose life was much more directed towards personal pleasures and consumption rather than the common good. Our guide admitted that “He [Khai Dinh] was not a good king” even as she took pride in the art and effort required to construct a tomb with features such as the life-size bronze statue, and the concrete pallaquin over his head, decorated to appear like silk above him.
Wall details in Khai Dinh Tomb, Hue, depicting two of the seasons of the year
In the current space of the Royal City, there is space to try on the yellow robes of the former kings decorated with the dragon motif, and even, for a price, to pose ceremoniously on the throne where one can be admired and paid homage to by whatever tourist may stand nearby, endeared fleetingly with no doubt countless “likes” on whatever social media is chosen to acclaim one’s glory.
Dragon motif decorating the modern temple dedicated to the memory of the Tran Huyen Princess, Hue.
We are most abundantly fortunate in knowing of those rewards prepared by a loving King who desires all his children to be Kings and Queens, and joint heirs with him of all power and majesty. It is the ultimate populist doctrine-- “Ye are gods” He said, and not peons or paupers, Kings and Queens, not slaves or servants. And unlike the dead and forgotten Kings who defended their riches and power by fortress, armies, secrecy and often intrigue, the Kings and Queens in His Kingdom find that power and honor, glory and influence flow unto them "without compulsory means" seemingly out of thin air, "as the dew of heaven."
Hai Quan Pass separates Hue from Danang and points south; The Nguyen dynasty fortified this key point to defend their capital, to which later generations of warriors added more defenses.
International Children's Day brought out some traditional costumes for one of our neighbors from Korea.
Sister H and Sister H in Danang share a common goal of being of service to their fellows- the signature of a transformed life, whether in a Mormon or a Buddhist.
Senior Missionary Sisters gather before an evening of cultural experiences in Hue, one in heart and mind if not in dress.
Being able to find the noble, the sublime, the confidence and regal glory that can emerge in the lives of many who have cast themselves on the ash-heap of life is perhaps the great miracle of the gospel of Jesus Christ. Even for those who have retained some sense of propriety and self-esteem the transformation as they come to understand what it means to BE a Child of God is always so remarkable. And wonderfully, it is not a situation where one ever has to worry about there being a more favored child somewhere else in the family; no crown prince or spoiled princess is ahead of us in the birth order! We are all offered the same wonderful kinship as heirs with all His children of all that He has, nothing more, and nothing less.
That’s the work we see our wonderful young (and old) missionaries doing each day. Pig’s ears become silk purses. Beauty for ashes. Victory from the jaws of defeat. Light and life supplants darkness and despair. Not surprisingly, it is joyful work, albeit also toilsome. We will not stop because we are tired, or worn, though there are times of respite and rejuvenation (such as General Conference weekends.) But we are ever motivated for the next opportunity to witness the miracle of a new King or Queen being prepared for their inheritance. No exiles or abdication needed, for this dynasty is an everlasting one.
Members and missionaries break between Conference Sessions to enjoy banh cuon and gio at a nearby street cafe. Red chilies and limes make it look like Christmas!
Part of the noble army of peace-bringers in Hanoi- none here more noble!
The French-era Colonial Government Center of French Indochine is now home to the Ho Chi Minh City People's Committee, which has nicely restored the exterior.
In seeking to create a culture of such nobility of thought and demeanor, we mesh so well with the cultural value here which seeks peace. After so many centuries of wars and conflicts, the people are just now beginning to reap the economic benefits of peaceful times, the so-called "peace dividend" from not wasting one's resources and spoiling one's countryside with the ill-will and toxins of conflict. But it really is the Prince of Peace, and the principles he taught that bring both inner and eternal Peace, that are desired. Notably, other religious themes of thought also carry some of this yearning for peace, and often through very similar principles. So as we climbed to the top of the hill behind the Tran Huyen Temple in our ties and white shirts, we could with the Buddhist monk there, also unashamedly ring the large cast bell, the Peace bell, that reminds the surrounds of that yearning. Perhaps you can also hear the resonant call for peace. It is a call made most convincing coming from true Kings and genuine Queens- the covenant-keeping, righteous-living kind!
I remember watching a film of the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace when I was a child, and hearing my mother read, many times, a collection of poems by A.A. Milne, which included his well-known one which starts out with....
They're changing guards at Buckingham Palace.
Christopher Robin went down with Alice.
And it came to mind as we were at the Citadel in Hue last week, showing it to our cohort of senior missionaries as part of our semi-annual senior missionary conference, because we happened to arrive there just before the early morning ceremonial posting of the guard there.
And because we are heading into the period of time when our 2016 group of 8 seniors will start returning home and new ones will be joining us.
One thing that has been particularly good is that, blessedly, the government required authorization letter finally was issued 24 hours before our newest senior couple, the Braithwaites, were scheduled to fly here. Without that authorization, entry into the country would be impossible. But it came. So they could. And they did, arriving about 10 hours before our morning flight to Hue. So they were able to be part of the conference too.
Elder Braithwaite is our second senior elder who served here previously in the military.
And no, it wasn't raining. Umbrellas are also sunshades in this part of the world.
The meetings were helpful and insightful and good. We have a group of thoughtful, earnest disciples here and it is a pleasure to work with them.
This was L. and my third trip to this historic city. It's a pleasant break from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City and offers, along with it's surrounding area, some lovely, peaceful places.
So, we also spent some time facilitating our senior couples in seeing some of that while we were here..
This pagoda complex is one of my favorites. The quiet, still in the city but up on a hill, is calming.
And I particularly love the view of the river it offers
Here are a few more photos to give you a bit of a sense of this city.
And then, this week, we held our next Hanoi Zone Conference. I can't say how much I love these people. Not enough words. I love, particularly, watching them learn to listen to, love and watch over each other as they engage in their work.
Elder T. rolled his ankle on his way to the conference. Elder V. was prepared.
