As seems to be the trend elsewhere in the world, the hype about a storm from the media tends to err on the side of caution. We've had three tropical storms blow through Hanoi in our time so far, with varying degrees of damage, ranging from downed trees (mostly shallow-rooted legumes, which seem to easily recover from these insults) to advertising banners and "temporary" sales and service booths on the street turning into tangled messes. This evening, the aftermath of a storm was a mostly clear sky and evening colors from our balcony as the sun set. Such a display is a rare event where the horizon is usually quite obliterated by the tropical humidity and haze.
Of course tropical storms and a rainy season means that drainage systems in a river delta will be stressed. I like this image of a car generating a wake that is almost surf-able, along with the motorbikes half-submerged (and sometimes still running!) We are learning to live with water in its various manifestations, from gaseous, to perspiration, to flooding. Some of our friends semi-enjoy the fun that accompanies flooded streets, when quite literally they can catch fish in the deluged gutters.
Of course as with many issues, the matter of flooding can also mean that there are areas subjected to drought. That is a relative term of course, rather like the definition of diarrhea or constipation. In Vietnam's coastal areas, a "drought" is more likely associated with decreased rainfall in the upstream watershed, leading to intrusion of salt-water and crop failure, whereas in the highlands the drought is associated with decreased surface water, and frustrated animal and human users. The LDS Charities couples have been successfully working on building storage tanks with some of the local communities affected by seasonal fluctuations in water resources, hoping that these modern cisterns will help them tide life over through the drought of the dry season.
We welcomed a new elder from Arizona this past week. Even though he had previously visited Vietnam with his family, he instantly found the humidity of a summer evening oppressive. The advent of heat exchangers and compressors that allow air conditioning and refrigeration have done a lot to make these climes more habitable though so once we were safely into the taxi he was home free. (Of course, those same inventions had an almost more powerful impact on the economy of Maine and other Northeastern areas which for a season thrived on their ability to harvest and export ice! The French somehow have managed to retain an almost similarly impossible trade in the export of water that is deemed more desirable than a local product. The "brand" enhances the meaning of th experience here, and for some, it must take them back to their memory of the Rhone or the Riviera. Would Poland Spring (reconstituted) ice from Maine similarly be able to evoke a frosty trip to check the ice-fishing traps on the Messagossawosamee?) Well, back to our new elder- he is a gem, bright and smart enough to raise the average IQ of the mission a dozen points, talented musically enough to make me think of missionary preforming groups to help bring the church out of obscurity, and humble enough that none of his companions will probably ever know most of that.
He was sprung loose from a larger group still studying in the mission training center, owing to the fact that his parents and grandmother all spoke Vietnamese freely at home, and at least until he went off to school, he likewise communicated primarily in Vietnamese so his conversational ability was adequate. The challenge of retaining language and culture as a minority when living in another dominant language like English is not a small one. His case is the exception rather than the rule, but even then, his skills with understanding the written language (it is phonetic so the rules of pronunciation are not hard to get) and the specialized vocabulary of teaching the gospel of Jesus Christ will still be an uphill climb for the coming weeks.
A new missionary meant that we needed to open a new apartment. In miraculous fashion, our two senior sisters in the office went out and found a nice apartment in this complex, in the area of town that we wanted to expand into that was available within the week, in the price range we could manage, in the two hours of time they had to look. (Can I mention that their prayers were very specifically answered?) The feel and design of the complex were highly reminiscent of the area our daughter Elizabeth lives in in Seoul, and perhaps not surprisingly, since the complex is named "Hyundai." I was particularly impressed when we were moving them in that the inhabitants included a very large number of families with children. The ground-level play-spaces were heavily used, and strollers packed the walk-ways, and the elevators. They have a message appropriate for their neighbors.
Architecture is a valued component of Vietnamese culture, even when it is the legacy of a period of colonialism, that for other reasons remains distasteful. This night-time view of the iconic Saigon Post Office in its fully restored splendor is evidence of that valuing of things of beauty, regardless of their social connotations. Much of the mid-20th century American architecture in the south has not gotten quite the same level of reverence, aside from the Independence or Reunification Palace. And now, as a massive building boom goes forward, both houses, apartments, and sky-scrapers can take on added meaning in the social fabric as they become landmark structures with style and distinction as this image displays the unique HCM skyline today. Utility may still trump design in many areas, but the balance is shifting a bit, and the details are beginning to show the appreciation for their taste of what elegance means.











